The Boozy Valley of the East End

Written for http://www.woodencauliflower.com/

By Ryan Pilot

Newcastle's economy was once powered by the manufacture of huge world class warships which fought far off battles in Japanese fleets. It was once powered by the building of the first ever steam trains which were wonders of the World. Now though all of this has gone and Newcastle seems to be fuelled by an industry a little less cutting edge; an industry as old as history itself: boozing.

Newcastle is swamped with pubs and bars and it can take an effort to stay sober. It is packed with tempting tipple houses from The Centurion at Central Station to the terraced bars of Osborne Road and everything in between. And everything in between includes some painfully stylish drinking spots such as Florita's Cocktail Bar and Camp David. You'll find pubs dripping with character like The Dog and Parrot and Bob Trollop's. Unfortunately everything in between is also crowded by soulless bars; populated by empty-headed haircuts and violence-seeking wife beaters. They pour uninspiring drinks down the necks of tasteless racists and numb, sour-faced dullards. These people occasionally permeate the good spots too.

There is, however, a haven. An area where all of the pubs and bars contain a diverse crowd of interesting, open-minded people and the occasional dullard wouldn't dream of starting a fight. Each pub is unique and comfortable, they serve a variety of delicious beers, wines, spirits and ciders. It is hidden in a valley holding a small river and not too far from the city centre. And the biggest surprise of all: It's in Byker.

Tucked away under Byker Bridge, Ouseburn Valley is an isolated, leafy area around the tiny Ouse River, which connects to the Tyne east of the Millennium Bridge. A few very small boats are anchored along the Ouse and the area is comprised of flats, a horse stable, a few artsy businesses and some gems of pubs.

The Cluny is at the heart of Ouseburn and is one of the best live venues in Newcastle. Each month it hosts some of the best touring acts (the great Graham Coxon of Blur is due to play on 18th May no less). The bar stocks a huge selection of real ales and real ciders and tasty spirits. A strawberry beer on the grass outside on a sunny day can be the perfect quick retreat from the claustrophobia of the city.

Just opposite The Cluny is The Ship Inn; a small pub with a terrace patio which holds the occasional barbecue. The Ship has a selection of real ales and a nice collection of Scotches. It's interior is wooden and cosy with a jukebox and, like The Cluny, you can take your drinks onto the grassy area when the sun pays a visit. Last bank holiday there was a real festival atmosphere between these two pubs, the grassy area was heaving and The Ship was blasting out music and serving draft lager from a temporary outdoor bar.

At the top of the Byker side of the valley is The Cumberland Arms. This is an incredibly warm and cosy pub full of folkies and their dogs. You can always catch some bearded fiddlers in the right hand room and now and again exciting, little-publicised gigs are held upstairs. This pub stocks a wealth of real ciders on regular rotation. The large patio out the front has plenty of benches and in cold weather you can hire a hot water bottle and hot cider for some winter comfort.

The Free Trade Inn has to be one of the best pubs in the city. It certainly has the best view of the Tyne with it's high vantage point. It is hidden behind Byker Wall and overlooks the meander of the river, taking in The Baltic, The Sage, The Millennium Bridge and The Tyne Bridge. It is heavy on character and blissfully lacking in sophistication. The jukebox is free and consists of mix CDs created by its rock-loving bar staff and has the creamiest Guinness in Newcastle.

Get a good seat in the window with your pint as the sun sets behind the two bridges and you will forget your worries and remember why you love Newcastle so much.